One of the most common questions we get asked is, how do you resize a ring? The answer can get a little tricky, depending on the ring. Generally speaking, a resize is done by cutting the ring shank in half through the bottom and either adding or removing metal (depending on whether the size needs to go up or down) and re-soldering the ring back together. But it could be much more complicated than that if the ring design is complex.
As far as ring style goes, the less stones there are the better. Solitaire is the easiest because it is the least complicated, and then follows other styles such as three-stone or cluster/halo with a plain band. Because the resizing process entails reshaping the structure (metal) of the ring by exerting extreme pressure, it affects all the stones set in the ring because it is held together by the metal.
When working with small stones in the band, all of the stones must be checked before and after the resizing process to see if they are loose in their settings. It is very common for them to come loose or even pop out through every day wear and tear, so when working under high temperature high pressure conditions extreme care has to be taken in order to maintain the security of the stones. In some instances, the stones would need to be unset and set again after resizing and is quite labor intensive. The same would be true for more fragile gemstones to minimize the risk of damage.
If there are any continuous designs on the band such as engraving, specialty finishes, or two-toned metal, be prepared that the ring may look different after resizing. In some special cases, it also may be difficult to achieve uniformity due to differences in metal alloy composition (this is not the same as karat composition). There are actually many different gold and platinum alloys out there, and standards can vary from country to country.
It is generally recommended to stay within 2 sizes or less with a resize. If the ring needs to be changed 3 sizes or more, you may need to consider the option of changing the ring mount altogether.
Every ring is individual, and the only way to know what needs to be done is to have it assessed. Feel free to come into Secret Sapphire for your complimentary quote!
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